Puebla: Mexico's Colonial Heritage Comes Alive

Another article I recently wrote for LatinWorld.com!


A trip to central Mexico would not be complete with a trek to Puebla. It is a refreshing change from the hustle of Mexico City and offers the colonial tradition so many of us associate with Mexico. Originally founded in 1531 by Spanish settlers as “Ciudad de los Ángeles” it has grown into Mexico’s fifth largest city.

The highway from Mexico City to Puebla is beautiful. Almost immediately you escape the smog and cement of D.F. and are greeted by tall trees on grass filled hills. The air is clean and as you wind up and down the highway you will see incredible vistas. You climb down from Mexico City to a valley of sorts, and then ascend once more to Puebla. Farms and agricultural communities line the way. Sheep graze freely along the road and donkeys are tethered to strategically “mow the grass.” Approximately three-quarters the way there, if you pay attention, you will spot a tiny blue shrine to the Guadalupe that looks like a doll’s castle nestle in a rock on the roadside.

It lies 125 km (78 miles) southeast of Mexico City and is easily accessible by bus. You have several options but most prices are in the $104 range. Tickets and information can be purchased via Ticket bus (www.ticketbus.com.mx) downtown D.F. It is a two-hour trip, but if you leave during rush hour or on a Friday afternoon expect major traffic delays in both Mexico City and Puebla. If you chose to drive yourself be advised there are several tollbooths. At the final toll entering Puebla you may be enticed into buying traditional candy from the region, either compote (sweet potato) mixed with sugar and different fruit flavors, or the sickening sweet borrachos (drunk man) gummy type candies.

Don’t be dismayed when you first approach Puebla. At first glance it appears to simply be another large city. The real charm lies in the downtown district. Make your way to the zócolo and spend your time here. The square is quite impressive. The cathedral itself hosts the highest towers in Mexico and is nothing less than grand. It takes the entire block south of the zócalo and appears on Mexico’s 500 pesos bill. The interior is awesome. A huge gold gilded organ dominates the center and elaborately decorated side chapels and frescoes add to the impressiveness. A local told me it is believed that the plans for this chapel were accidently switched with the cathedral in Mexico City; and thus Puebla ended up with the cathedral originally intended for D.F.

Directly oposite the cathedral lies the municipal governmental building and several restaurants and coffee shops. Statues and a modern art piece complete the square. Puebla’s industry was originally pottery, glass, and textile. The influx of Chinese imports has changed this and now tourism (and the Volkswagen plant which is said to employee 60% of the city) is the main industry. The government keeps the downtown area quite clean and it is extremely tourist friendly. Many of the signs are bilingual and there are directions on every corner to local museums and sights.

There are many museums and I visited a few by simply following signs. The best is said to be Museo Amparo (www.museoamparao.com), which is housed in a colonial building of the 16-17the century and stocked with pre-Hispanic artifacts. Puebla also hosts an orchestra. If you happen to be there on a Sunday after noon ask any local where you can find the “orquesta local”. They usually play around 6pm for the public and are often in a converted hospital right off the zócalo.

Lodging is very easy to find. You can simply walk around the square and ask to see rooms and price lists. Ask about breakfast or “desayuno” as several hotels offer a wonderful complimentary morning meal.

You cannot mention that you will be going to Puebla without being told about the food. It is known for specialty regional dishes and deserts. Be sure to try the mole and Chilies en Nogada. A wonderful restaurant featuring traditional Puebla cuisine is Fonda de Santa Clara (fondadesantaclara.com). I had the Chiles en Nogada, which is ground beef stuffed in chili and topped with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds. It is a delicious mixture of sweet and spice and the crunch of pomegranate adds refreshing burst of flavor. My companion went for the mole, sampling the green, red, and chocolate varies. Be warned that mole is often too heavy to be eaten as an evening meal and often upsets the consumer’s stomach. It can be extremely rich and as my companion can attest, you may want to opt for it at lunch. Another common Puebla food is crickets, or “chapulines”, with chili, salt, and lime. You may see these critters a top a salad or sauce, and they can be readily purchased from street side vendors. They are said to be very high in protein and a perfect snack. I found them to be crunchy and slightly earthy, but in my opinion, just about anything is edible with chili and lime.

Once a city of its own, but now practically Puebla itself, Cholula is the home to the widest pyramid ever built, the Pirámide Tepanapa. It is completely covered by grass and if you did not know it was a pyramid you would think it just a large hill. Actually, legend has it that the Spanish did not realize what it was and built their church right on top. According to local lore it is debatable whether the Spanish knew what they were doing or not, it is thought that building a church on the site of a such a ceremonial ground was the Spanish way to stop indigenous practice and enforce Catholicism. Whatever the case it is definitely worth a trip. The church is constructed of beautiful bright orange domes and white accents like icing dripping down the sides. Masses are still routinely held and you can look out onto the entire city of Cholula while listening to the sermon being sung in Latin.

You can purchase handmade chocolate, crickets, nuts, and trinkets on the ascent and descent and a small market has been established at the hill’s base. Directly across from the textile and jewelry vendors is a food market. If you happen to find the bright orange tent with several like colored barrels underneath labeled “helado” stop in and try some of this delicious ice cream. My personal favorite is from the fruit of guanábana. A family of four women also has their business under this tent, making quesadillas, huaraches, and sopes. They are delicious and the women are quite friendly. I recommend the “flor de casaba” which is the flower of pumpkin and chicharrón. If you’re feeling especially brave you can sample the corn fungus, or huitlachoce quesadillas.

Although it is still a large city, the tile and colonial architecture of downtown Puebla takes you back; it is such a historical village. It’s well worth a visit and remember you really must try the postries.


http://www.latinworld.com/2010/puebla-mexicos-colonial-heritage-comes-alive.htm

Hola from Mexico!

Me Amigos, you will never believe where I am- hopefully once you do you will understand my hiatus from blogging.

I am in Mexico City! I know, can you believe it? Let me tell you a story: Since I have been a very young girl I have been fascinated with Spanish and the Latin culture. I think this has something to do with my Italian heritage. There is a real similarity of culture between the Italians and Latinos and I have always wanted to know more about the later.

When I was about five years old I remember standing beside a Mexican family in our local grocery store. I was absolutely enamored with their language and so intrigued at the idea of using different words to indicate the same things. That day, my fascination with language began and it has been tinkering around in my mind since.

This past year has offered me the opportunity to make a complete 360 change in my life (thanks Mom) and find myself. I am vibrantly aware of what a gift this is; the gift of being allowed to pursue your true self and consequently your dreams and goals is invaluable.

That is the short story of how I now find myself, on 9 Febrero 2010, writing to you from a departmento overlooking Mexico City. I have been here three weeks, and in these three weeks have had more life changing experience and growth than I ever could have imagined.

It's hard to know where to start; I want to share all of my experiences with you but there have been so many that delineating this stimulating journey proves a little tricky. Aha, that's it- I think I know how to describe this journey to you: Everything is New.

No exaggeration here, it is all new and different, glamorous and terrifying, challenging and invigorating- and I love it.

To be in an environment where I am constantly challenged is awesome. I am learning Spanish, but am definitely not fluent yet. I am in a Spanish-speaking country where English is not used...... Challengingly frustratingly wonderful? Si! Bring it on, I want this challenge and I will be fluent, as for now it is a "win"to be a Spanish speaker at all- even if I am an infant speaker. I am loving learning the language and will be a successful, fluent, Spanish speaker soon.

I have done many exciting things since arriving here, but am finding that the things I enjoy the most are quiet moments during an extended lunch at a small cafe listening to a musician that comes to serenade us all, watching families on the metro, hearing the different music vendors are selling, and people watching.............

Food and weight wise, I am doing really well. It's extremely easy being gluten free here as corn is the main grain staple. Leche is a bit more difficult to avoid, but nothing insurmountable. I have joined a local gym and frequent it at least four days a week, using doing some sort of cardio 3 days and weights 2 days. I am also walking a lot- a whole lot. Not to mention the 500 something steps I took up the Aztec pyramids.

I am immersed in a culture different than what I've known. It's isolating and welcoming, reserved and effusive, macho and tender,progressive and third world, feo and bonita. Mexico is a beautiful dichotomy and I love it.

I hope you all have the oppurtunity to reach for a dream- you will never regret any movement you make towards your goals.

Abrazos y Besos,
Jade (Hathe en Espanol)