Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Puebla: Mexico's Colonial Heritage Comes Alive

Another article I recently wrote for LatinWorld.com!


A trip to central Mexico would not be complete with a trek to Puebla. It is a refreshing change from the hustle of Mexico City and offers the colonial tradition so many of us associate with Mexico. Originally founded in 1531 by Spanish settlers as “Ciudad de los Ángeles” it has grown into Mexico’s fifth largest city.

The highway from Mexico City to Puebla is beautiful. Almost immediately you escape the smog and cement of D.F. and are greeted by tall trees on grass filled hills. The air is clean and as you wind up and down the highway you will see incredible vistas. You climb down from Mexico City to a valley of sorts, and then ascend once more to Puebla. Farms and agricultural communities line the way. Sheep graze freely along the road and donkeys are tethered to strategically “mow the grass.” Approximately three-quarters the way there, if you pay attention, you will spot a tiny blue shrine to the Guadalupe that looks like a doll’s castle nestle in a rock on the roadside.

It lies 125 km (78 miles) southeast of Mexico City and is easily accessible by bus. You have several options but most prices are in the $104 range. Tickets and information can be purchased via Ticket bus (www.ticketbus.com.mx) downtown D.F. It is a two-hour trip, but if you leave during rush hour or on a Friday afternoon expect major traffic delays in both Mexico City and Puebla. If you chose to drive yourself be advised there are several tollbooths. At the final toll entering Puebla you may be enticed into buying traditional candy from the region, either compote (sweet potato) mixed with sugar and different fruit flavors, or the sickening sweet borrachos (drunk man) gummy type candies.

Don’t be dismayed when you first approach Puebla. At first glance it appears to simply be another large city. The real charm lies in the downtown district. Make your way to the zócolo and spend your time here. The square is quite impressive. The cathedral itself hosts the highest towers in Mexico and is nothing less than grand. It takes the entire block south of the zócalo and appears on Mexico’s 500 pesos bill. The interior is awesome. A huge gold gilded organ dominates the center and elaborately decorated side chapels and frescoes add to the impressiveness. A local told me it is believed that the plans for this chapel were accidently switched with the cathedral in Mexico City; and thus Puebla ended up with the cathedral originally intended for D.F.

Directly oposite the cathedral lies the municipal governmental building and several restaurants and coffee shops. Statues and a modern art piece complete the square. Puebla’s industry was originally pottery, glass, and textile. The influx of Chinese imports has changed this and now tourism (and the Volkswagen plant which is said to employee 60% of the city) is the main industry. The government keeps the downtown area quite clean and it is extremely tourist friendly. Many of the signs are bilingual and there are directions on every corner to local museums and sights.

There are many museums and I visited a few by simply following signs. The best is said to be Museo Amparo (www.museoamparao.com), which is housed in a colonial building of the 16-17the century and stocked with pre-Hispanic artifacts. Puebla also hosts an orchestra. If you happen to be there on a Sunday after noon ask any local where you can find the “orquesta local”. They usually play around 6pm for the public and are often in a converted hospital right off the zócalo.

Lodging is very easy to find. You can simply walk around the square and ask to see rooms and price lists. Ask about breakfast or “desayuno” as several hotels offer a wonderful complimentary morning meal.

You cannot mention that you will be going to Puebla without being told about the food. It is known for specialty regional dishes and deserts. Be sure to try the mole and Chilies en Nogada. A wonderful restaurant featuring traditional Puebla cuisine is Fonda de Santa Clara (fondadesantaclara.com). I had the Chiles en Nogada, which is ground beef stuffed in chili and topped with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds. It is a delicious mixture of sweet and spice and the crunch of pomegranate adds refreshing burst of flavor. My companion went for the mole, sampling the green, red, and chocolate varies. Be warned that mole is often too heavy to be eaten as an evening meal and often upsets the consumer’s stomach. It can be extremely rich and as my companion can attest, you may want to opt for it at lunch. Another common Puebla food is crickets, or “chapulines”, with chili, salt, and lime. You may see these critters a top a salad or sauce, and they can be readily purchased from street side vendors. They are said to be very high in protein and a perfect snack. I found them to be crunchy and slightly earthy, but in my opinion, just about anything is edible with chili and lime.

Once a city of its own, but now practically Puebla itself, Cholula is the home to the widest pyramid ever built, the Pirámide Tepanapa. It is completely covered by grass and if you did not know it was a pyramid you would think it just a large hill. Actually, legend has it that the Spanish did not realize what it was and built their church right on top. According to local lore it is debatable whether the Spanish knew what they were doing or not, it is thought that building a church on the site of a such a ceremonial ground was the Spanish way to stop indigenous practice and enforce Catholicism. Whatever the case it is definitely worth a trip. The church is constructed of beautiful bright orange domes and white accents like icing dripping down the sides. Masses are still routinely held and you can look out onto the entire city of Cholula while listening to the sermon being sung in Latin.

You can purchase handmade chocolate, crickets, nuts, and trinkets on the ascent and descent and a small market has been established at the hill’s base. Directly across from the textile and jewelry vendors is a food market. If you happen to find the bright orange tent with several like colored barrels underneath labeled “helado” stop in and try some of this delicious ice cream. My personal favorite is from the fruit of guanábana. A family of four women also has their business under this tent, making quesadillas, huaraches, and sopes. They are delicious and the women are quite friendly. I recommend the “flor de casaba” which is the flower of pumpkin and chicharrón. If you’re feeling especially brave you can sample the corn fungus, or huitlachoce quesadillas.

Although it is still a large city, the tile and colonial architecture of downtown Puebla takes you back; it is such a historical village. It’s well worth a visit and remember you really must try the postries.


http://www.latinworld.com/2010/puebla-mexicos-colonial-heritage-comes-alive.htm

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Buenas Noches,

Good evening from a land far away, but yet so close- Mexico City. It
is amazing I can be residing in a third world country and immersed in
a new way of life while only being three hours (by plane) away from
Los Estados Unidos. It's is like one of those distorting mirrors in a
fun house; technology makes the "impossible" true.

I have set into a routine here in Mexico and find myself increasingly
comfortable. I am starting to think like a Mexicana, act like one,
and yes- speak like one (yeah!). I've had more than one experience
where I've meant to use English and found myself accidentally typing
Spanish; and when I spend time with an English speaker it's pretty
normal to throw in both languages. I am looking for a school to take
some classes while I'm here; I've been told that is the best way to
get a hold on the grammar and fine tune my skills. I have the nouns
down- but future/ past/ tense and then the different forms of "be" are
still not perfected by a long shot. I'm a "toddler" in my speech- able
to communicate elementary concepts, but still limited. I know all I
need to do is practice more and be patient. Sometimes I forget it has
only been a few months (two and a half) and expect myself to be
fluent. One nice thing about being here is that I am picking up the
accent- well the Chilango accent (Mx City native). I prefer the
Northern Mex. accent and actually 99% of my friends are northern
Mexican and I sound like I am from Monterrey or Chihuahua.

Frequently it is commented on that I look like a northern Mexican
woman. I think "my people" are there. I find I am more drawn to that
culture for whatever reason....the lines of demarcation within
cultures are much more distinct here than in the US. In other words, we
can tell when someone is from Louisiana and of course they have a
different culture in some ways- but we are also very similar. Here, of
course they are all Mexican, but vary greatly from State to to State
in morals, accent, work ethic, political ideals, and physical
appearance. The people I meet from N. Mexico do look more like me-
they are tall, often have lighter complexions, and hazel or even green
eyes. Some of them are quite striking and really fit the bill of a
handsome Latino! Northern Mexicans are known for being straight
shooters who look you in the eye when they speak to you. Their accent
is melodious and generally they speak slower. Chiuahians are
especially friendly and out going, Monterrey people are savvy
businessmen and known for finding the best deals and being somewhat
cheap, and Guadalajara produces some real beauties. I often say I am
from N. Mexico- and if said with the proper accent I am believed. I
have only had a handful of people guess I'm American; European yes-
but not American. Sometimes I'm told I look Brazilian, Argentinian,
North Mexican... I take this as a real compliment.

Here in Mexico City the people are so short! I hear the N. Mexicans
talking about it all the time- it's incredible. I mean, really, really
short. They are darker skinned and I rarely see anything but dark eyes
and hair (although some of the girls do dye their hair this terrible
blonde color). Their facial bone structure can be exquisite,
especially the more indigenous looking ones. Strong cheek bones
sloping down to small flat chins with thin lips chiseled out and dark
back beads of eyes. Then, of course, thick rich dark hair tops it all
off. I am the tallest person in Mexico City. Really I am.

This city never ceases to amaze me. Yesterday I went to the
President's Palace in Zocala. What other downtown hosts authentic
Aztec ruins? Where else can you take a coffee (as they say here) and
cruise through a 500 year old cathedral, have your soul cleansed in an
Indian rite, and then enjoy Diego Rivera's murals? When I go downtown
and walk among these amazing historical buildings I have to pinch
myself. The buildings are amazing, the history positively ancient,
and culture is so so so alive.

My friend took me to a traditional Spanish restaurant yesterday. Most
of the patrons were actually from Spain themselves or had some
connection with Spain. The bottom floor was an art museum full of
dramatic oil paintings and an accompanying Spanish cultural center.
We didn't eat at the restaurant as we were on our way to another
museum, but I plan to go back later and try some of that exotic food-
from what I saw it looked like nothing I've ever had.

There is a huge photography exhibit in the downtown area I've been
dying to see. A Mex. photographer traveled the country capturing
humanistic shots of his land. The line to get in was immense though,
several hundred people- so I will try and sneak in during the week
when there's less people.

After Zocala we jumped the metro, oh yes, here's a story. I got caught
in the metro door. This is a big difference in Mexico. The US is so
safety oriented- special touch sensitive doors everywhere, bars
keeping people away from the edges of tall buildings, bus doors that
close securely, etc. Mexico is different. It was like when an
elevator door closes and you're trying to walk through so it touches
you and then regresses....except the door never regressed. I was
trying to run into the metro and just about missed it but thought I
could slip within the closing doors. Well, I could slip in alright -
but then they closed on me and proceeded to squeeze relentlessly. I
couldn't move- forward or backwards! The metro was absolutely packed-
I mean we were like sardines. No one even batted an eye at the gringa
being compressed; apparently this is the norm. I on the other hand was
quite alarmed, and uncomfortable, and let out a little shriek. I was
able to forcefully jar the doors open thankfully before the metro left
off and join my fellow passengers in our sardine can.

The afternoon played out like a dream. I went on a date with a
Chilago, Icauti. He knows the city like the back of his hand- which
always makes for a good time. Frida Kohda's "Casa Azul" (blue house),
really amazing. Strange woman, great artist, interesting life. I am
so drawn to art, it is one of my "elements". I find a strange
invigorating sense of peace peering into the world of others; and art
is nothing if not a communication from someone else. It's a key to
their world, offering limitless fascination...

A stroll through a crowded market where I found hand-made earrings for
my sister's birthday (can't wait to see her reaction- they are
beautiful, made by indigenous Indians here), a walk to the "smallest
house in Mexico", the most famous music school in Mexico (a french
chateau of sorts), through quaint streets lined with heinda trees
which produce the most amazing violet flowers which litter the ground
and make you feel like you're in a Lewis Carol novel, a trip to one of
the oldest cathedrals in Mexico, lunch at a small hole-in-the-wall
cafe, and people watching with guabana (one of my new favorite Mexican
fruits) popsicle. They make great popsicles here, no milk- just fruit
and water frozen- yum. Add in some crazy taxi driving which is always
amusing and elicits laughter from me and you have the best date I've
ever been on.

Alas that is the life I lived today. :-0)

Friday, March 12, 2010

Self Esteem and Living the Dream

Amigos,

Buenas tardes. It is late afternoon here in Mexico City (DF) on one of the cooler days we've had. I'm enjoying a breeze off my balcony, the fire of chile on my tongue, and the street noises. I can hear a man whisteling, cars bustling back and forth, and the far off stream of an airplane. This city is alive, always full of sound and color.

This week I have been reflecting on self esteem. There was a time in my life where I despearatly wanted to be proud of who I was. I was searching for self acceptance and love, self truth and understanding, and for a true friend within myself. I have found it.

I am on my own personal spiritual journey which has helped lead me to where I am now; and feel that whatever path you take in life having a spiritual base is vital. It is up to you (of course) if you feel spiritual growth goes hand in hand with typical Western religion- but whatever path you take, realizing your existence and potential as a spiritual being is desirable. Life is more than the here and now, we are more than animals, and seeing all the glory you possess is important.

Part of the reason I came to Mexico was to further understand myself (aka my spiritual journey) and build my self esteem.

I have read before that self esteem is commonly believed to be innate and something we are all born with. The author I was reading said this is a falsehood; self esteem is something that is earned through overcoming obstacles and realizing your true strength.

Moving to Mexico was a dream for me, I had many obstacles and hurdles I had to overcome to be here. Luckily I have several people in my life are very supportive and helped me overcome my barriers, but nonetheless in the end it was my willingness to overcome inhibiting fears that landed me here.

Conquering these obstacles and arriving here provided ample challenges. Confronting each one of these and handling them one by one has left me with a much heightened sense of self esteem and provided personal growth.

It has shown me first hand the value of facing dreams and accomplishing them. The personal benefits out-weigh any monetary or material gain; you are giving yourself the gift realizing your potential.

I'm standing proud and sure, and I wish this for all of you.

Go out there and grab yourself some of your dreams.

Friday, February 26, 2010

Buenos Noches

Buenos Noches Amigos,

Another evening is coming to a close in the fascinating Ciudad of Federal de Mexico.

I realize something about myself, I thrive on new experiences and cultural diversity. I think my friends would be shocked if they decided to visit me here because of how I've depicted Mexico. I've shared the romance, excitement, beauty, and allure that all comes from a new land. In truth, someone else in the exact same place as I may not have any of these sentiments. Just as I find all the wonder of the world here, another would find poverty and the ugly face of class distinction.
Where I see allure and mystery, they would find dirty restaurants and poverty.

I sat at a roadside cafe and delighted in eating my consome de pollo from a broken cup, another would despise this.

Don't you see, I am in my element. Being here among a different people, learning a new language, and experiencing a culture different than my own brings me life- invigorates me- my element is to be out of my element.

This is a discovery, part of the recipe that makes me tick. It is a useful road sign to a life that I love and work that is meaningful. My future is starting to look mighty grand and I'm finding it difficult to control my excitement.

Something about being here is showing me myself; may I never be anyone else again.

Besos,
Jadeita

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Yo Soy Mexicana

Hola Amigos,

Tonight marks the closing of my first five weeks here in Mexico City. Wow, it has been adventurous to say the least.

This week has been full of adventure, a different kind of an adventure. This adventure has included exposure to my arch enemies gluten and dairy, a surprisingly intense bout of the swine flu, antibacterial injections in the rump, and finally some peace.

I am continuing to learn Spanish and have gotten especially good at reading comprehension. This is helpful, except in the case with menus- the food preparation methods are not listed out as in the US. Thus, I thought I was getting something with corn starch and ended up with a gluten filled dish. It's been about 4-5 months since I had gluten, and this run in has proven to be much less than pleasant. I immediately became sick and soon after got pounced upon by the flu.

This flu is intense- very fast acting and powerful. Extreme dizziness, body aches, inability to sleep, sore throat, swollen body, loss of voice, semi-consciousness, and fever. I ended up going to a local doctor, something I try to avoid, and am happy I did. I immediately received an antibiotic shot and I must return for 3-6 more. I'm already feeling better, and after my first injection was finally able to sleep- Major Triumph.

I figure there's several positive aspects to this: 1) I now will have a stronger immune defense against local germs and 2) I'm officially Mexicana- I mean, the flu germs, the Mexican flu germs, were literally inside of me- I'm as good as a local.

Chalk this up to yet another experience, in a strange and beautiful Land!

Besos Amigos,
Jade

Thursday, February 11, 2010

Hola from Mexico!

Me Amigos, you will never believe where I am- hopefully once you do you will understand my hiatus from blogging.

I am in Mexico City! I know, can you believe it? Let me tell you a story: Since I have been a very young girl I have been fascinated with Spanish and the Latin culture. I think this has something to do with my Italian heritage. There is a real similarity of culture between the Italians and Latinos and I have always wanted to know more about the later.

When I was about five years old I remember standing beside a Mexican family in our local grocery store. I was absolutely enamored with their language and so intrigued at the idea of using different words to indicate the same things. That day, my fascination with language began and it has been tinkering around in my mind since.

This past year has offered me the opportunity to make a complete 360 change in my life (thanks Mom) and find myself. I am vibrantly aware of what a gift this is; the gift of being allowed to pursue your true self and consequently your dreams and goals is invaluable.

That is the short story of how I now find myself, on 9 Febrero 2010, writing to you from a departmento overlooking Mexico City. I have been here three weeks, and in these three weeks have had more life changing experience and growth than I ever could have imagined.

It's hard to know where to start; I want to share all of my experiences with you but there have been so many that delineating this stimulating journey proves a little tricky. Aha, that's it- I think I know how to describe this journey to you: Everything is New.

No exaggeration here, it is all new and different, glamorous and terrifying, challenging and invigorating- and I love it.

To be in an environment where I am constantly challenged is awesome. I am learning Spanish, but am definitely not fluent yet. I am in a Spanish-speaking country where English is not used...... Challengingly frustratingly wonderful? Si! Bring it on, I want this challenge and I will be fluent, as for now it is a "win"to be a Spanish speaker at all- even if I am an infant speaker. I am loving learning the language and will be a successful, fluent, Spanish speaker soon.

I have done many exciting things since arriving here, but am finding that the things I enjoy the most are quiet moments during an extended lunch at a small cafe listening to a musician that comes to serenade us all, watching families on the metro, hearing the different music vendors are selling, and people watching.............

Food and weight wise, I am doing really well. It's extremely easy being gluten free here as corn is the main grain staple. Leche is a bit more difficult to avoid, but nothing insurmountable. I have joined a local gym and frequent it at least four days a week, using doing some sort of cardio 3 days and weights 2 days. I am also walking a lot- a whole lot. Not to mention the 500 something steps I took up the Aztec pyramids.

I am immersed in a culture different than what I've known. It's isolating and welcoming, reserved and effusive, macho and tender,progressive and third world, feo and bonita. Mexico is a beautiful dichotomy and I love it.

I hope you all have the oppurtunity to reach for a dream- you will never regret any movement you make towards your goals.

Abrazos y Besos,
Jade (Hathe en Espanol)